For decades, Pinot Noir has been the darling of the Willamette Valley, and rightfully so. But there's another grape that's been quietly perfecting its performance here since the early days, and it's finally ready for its standing ovation. I'm talking about Chardonnay, the white wine that's making critics and connoisseurs do a double-take when they realize it's from Oregon, not Burgundy.
As someone who's spent the last quarter-century with my hands in every aspect of our valley's wine industry, I've had a front-row seat to this transformation. Back in the 1960s, when pioneers David Lett and Charles Coury first planted Chardonnay in the Willamette Valley, they were working with what they could get their hands on – mainly the Davis 108 and Draper selections. These clones were better suited to California's warmth than our cool-climate paradise. It was like trying to dress a Northwest hipster in flip-flops and board shorts; something just wasn't quite right.
The game-changer came in the 1990s with the introduction of Dijon clones, particularly 76, 95, and 96. These French imports felt right at home in our maritime climate, where morning fog kisses the vines and cool afternoon breezes keep things interesting. The switch was like finally finding the perfect outfit – suddenly, everything just worked.
The evolution didn't stop with better plant material. Our winemaking techniques have gotten more sophisticated too, though I'd argue it's more about restraint than intervention. Take Josh Bergström, for instance. His Sigrid Chardonnay showcases what happens when you combine old-world techniques with our distinctive terroir. The wine sees extended lees aging in French oak, but it's the acidity – a gift from our cool climate – that makes it sing. When Wine Advocate awarded the 2019 vintage 97 points, they called it "energetic and layered... with incredible tension and length." Not bad for a region that's supposedly all about Pinot Noir, right?
And speaking of critics falling in love, let's talk about Walter Scott's Chardonnays. Winemaker Ken Pahlow's obsession with site expression has earned he and his wife, Erica Landon, quite the following. Their Freedom Hill Chardonnay routinely scores in the mid-90s from Vinous, with Antonio Galloni praising its "remarkable precision and energy." I remember tasting the 2018 vintage with Ken, and he just smiled that knowing smile when I commented on its striking similarity to Meursault. "Yeah," he said, "but this is pure Willamette Valley."
What makes our Chardonnays so special? It's the same things that make living here such a joy. Those misty mornings that have me reaching for another cup of coffee? They're slowly ripening our grapes, developing complex flavors while maintaining crucial acidity. The volcanic and marine sedimentary soils that make hiking in the Dundee Hills so fascinating? They're imparting distinct mineral characteristics to our wines. Even our rainfall pattern – dry summers and wet winters – creates the perfect natural irrigation cycle.
The results speak for themselves. Bethel Heights Vineyard's Justice Vineyard Chardonnay earned 96 points from Wine Enthusiast, who praised its "laser-focused acidity" and "extraordinary length." Evening Land's Seven Springs Vineyard Chardonnay was named one of Wine Spectator's Top 100 Wines. And Lingua Franca's Bunker Hill Chardonnay? Well, let's just say when Jancis Robinson calls your wine "thrilling," you're doing something right.
But here's the thing – you really need to come taste for yourself. Reading about these wines is like perusing postcards of the Cascade Mountains rather than drinking in their IRL majesty. Schedule your visit for late spring when the valley is carpeted in wildflowers, or come in early fall when the morning fog creates an ethereal backdrop for your tasting adventures. Start your day at one of our historic pioneers like Eyrie Vineyards, where the Chardonnay story began. Then work your way through newer producers like Hundred Suns where, according to Clive Purshouse of Decanter, winemaker Grant Coulter is crafting some of the most exciting Chardonnays in the U.S.
Between tastings, take in the views that make this place special. Hike the oak-studded hills that remind us why we call this the Pacific Wonderland. Watch red-tailed hawks soar over the vineyards, hunting for their lunch while you contemplate yours at one of our world-class restaurants. And as you sip a glass of Willamette Valley Chardonnay with dinner, notice how it captures everything about this place – the tension between sun and rain, the complex soils beneath our feet, the cool breezes that sweep down from the Oregon Coast Range.
You might have tasted your way through Napa, Sonoma, or even Burgundy. But I promise you, there's something different happening here in the Willamette Valley. Our Chardonnays aren't trying to be anything other than what they are – pure expressions of this extraordinary place we call home. They're wines of precision and purity, power and elegance, and they're finally ready for their moment in the spotlight.
So come see us. The wines are waiting, the views are spectacular, and there's always room for another Chardonnay convert at our table. Just remember to pack a light jacket – this is Oregon, after all, and those cool breezes that make our wines so special might have you reaching for an extra layer. But trust me, it's worth it.